Travel to the end of the earth—as Ushuaia, Argentina, is called. Then travel beyond it, to the islands, coves and research stations of Antarctica, a remote and mysterious land experienced by only a handful of visitors each year.

Recently, we joined 153 other adventure seekers in the relaxed luxury of Atlas Ocean Voyages’ World Voyager—the third ship in the cruise line’s fleet of expedition yachts—for an 11-night journey to the White Continent. After transiting the dreaded Drake Passage (with waves sometimes reaching 10 to 14 feet or higher, there’s a reason it is called the Drake Shake!), we would have six days in this polar desert with snow-covered peaks resembling great dollops of meringue and shimmering from sky to sea in shades of white, blue, aqua and gray. Here, the Gentoos and Emperors, Chinstraps and Rockhoppers traverse the penguin highways while leopard seals lie in wait along shorelines and ice shelves and humpback whales troll the waters for krill.

An active cruise experience, an Atlas World Voyager expedition is as much about education as it is the sheer enjoyment of Antarctica’s dramatic landscapes, crisp air, deep blue sea and resident wildlife, with shore landings and Zodiac safaris offered daily, at the captain’s (and Mother Nature’s) pleasure. Weather-wise, Antarctica is an unpredictable quick-change artist, where calm, sunny skies can morph—sometimes within hours or even minutes—into freezing winds and zero visibility.

It was a nippy 19 degrees, for instance, on our morning landing in Neko Harbor, an inlet of the Antarctic Peninsula on Andvord Bay, and fierce winds blowing snow about brought tears to my eyes, making it a challenge to photograph the colonies of penguins waddling up and down the glaciers. When the sun put in an appearance for that afternoon’s landing to Brown Station, one of 13 bases Argentina operates on the White Continent, everyone began shedding layers (including parkas and gloves) as we ascended the mountain for views overlooking the bay and ship.

Overall, Mother Nature was magnanimous during our adventure. In Port Charcot on the western coast of Booth Island, I opened my door to 46 degrees and a sun-drenched balcony, perfectly comfortable for sitting in pajamas with morning coffee and camera. That afternoon, gloriously warm weather made cruising Pleneau Island a joy. One of the most photographed places on the Antarctic Peninsula, it is nicknamed the “Iceberg Graveyard” for the proliferation of stranded icebergs melting in the bay. This shape-shifting sculptural tableaux made for some beautiful photographs, the blue tunnels and frozen peaks, bridges and arches casting blue shadows in the water.

From World Voyager’s team of expert guides — naturalists, biologists, mountaineers and others, led by such renowned professionals as mountain and kayak guide and former Antarctica base manager Didier Drouet -- we learn the protocols for shore landings and Zodiac safaris. The safaris serpentine among the icebergs, growlers and bergy bits floating on the waters. Immersion in this pristine continent’s magic and beauty, while neither disturbing wildlife nor imprinting the environment, is both the goal and the payoff.

Preparation for land and sea outings takes place in the ship’s Mud Room where the waterproof parkas and boots are stowed. Gathering first in the Atlas Lounge, we are called by groups to head to our individual lockers to tug on waterproof pants and boots and clip on a life vest. (Our group was the Chinstraps, named for the penguin marked with a narrow black band beneath its head—and we were treated to the sight of several colonies of these helmeted charmers.) Once geared up, we take turns stepping into the boot sanitizer before then do-si-doing through the gauntlet of guides to sailor grip our way down the stairs and into the waiting Zodiac boat.

Weeks before our departure, we had watched Atlas’ “What to Wear” video for a checklist of clothing and gear essential for polar expeditions. Layering is absolutely key for warmth, safety and comfort for land and sea excursions. We purchased and packed the recommended items and were not disappointed: From wool socks and waterproof gloves, to base, middle and outer layers, neck gaiters and fleece-lined hats, drysack and waterproof cellphone case, we used every single item on almost every outing throughout our time in Antarctica. Atlas provides the parkas (and these are yours to keep) and the knee boots.

Onboard World Voyager, daily activities include 4 p.m. tea time, après sea canapes in the lounge accompanied by music, expedition recaps with a briefing of the next day’s adventures, live music, history and cultural programming, movies and other entertainment. Guests are free to visit the Bridge when open and, weather permitting, the pool and hot tubs—and many adventurers took a dip during our voyage. World Voyager has a fitness studio and sauna and a nicely arrayed gift shop filled with branded jackets and fleece, stuffed penguins and more.

One activity we loved was “Murder at Sea,” a murder mystery game with clues hidden all over the ship. Everyone had fun trying to throw red herrings into the mix and derailing other players. (There is a prize on the line, after all.) We also enjoyed guide presentations, including one talk about Canadian cave diver and underwater explorer Jill Heinerth, who is the first person to have dived the iceberg caves of Antarctica.

Dinners are delicious and neighborly affairs with gourmet dishes and adventure swapping among guests. A highlight is the Circus Ticket Dinner Extravaganza, with food stations offering a variety of tapas (shrimp tacos with tomatillo salsa, Texas chili short ribs, vegetable fritters, lobster bullets, fried noodles and more) set up in Paula’s Pantry, the Dome Observation Lounge, the Atlas Lounge, even the reception area. And that’s just the pre-dinner bites.

For dinner, the kitchen outdoes itself with a smorgasbord of delectables: smoked duck breast, seabream and apricot salad, grilled scallops, chargrilled carrots, smoked pork belly, baked artichoke, tomato fondue. And for dessert? A ferry wheel of mini éclairs, plus fruit skewers, candied nuts, a chocolate fountain, a mountain of cupcakes, cotton candy, popcorn, cheese and fruit platters and other goodies.

Cabins on World Voyager are roomy, comfy and thoughtfully and tastefully designed, with large, well-organized bathrooms that feature not only a rainshower, but handheld spray and four separate jets positioned above a bench—such a lovely indulgence after a day of playing on the ice. The ship’s L’Occitane Sea Spa has a menu of massage therapies and facials, including one of the most divine facials I’ve ever experienced, so perfect was the touch and application of aromatherapeutic lotions and potions. The spa also cossets a serene sitting area with warming daybeds for unwinding and watching the glaciers glide by.

Of course, the main event of any Antarctic voyage are the sights, sounds, colors, landscapes and wildlife witnessed on land and sea. Over and over, we heard from Atlas crew and guides that a visit to this remote and mysterious land is life-changing—and it is. Experiencing the icy beauty of Antarctica brings a whole new perspective of both the grandeur and fragility of the environment, your impact on it and connection to it, as well as your own place in the world.

Fun Facts

France and Spain are the most visited countries in the world, with more than 90 million tourists annually. International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) estimates Antarctica will receive 107,270 visitors for 2024-25.

The jumping off point for this Atlas Ocean Voyages World Adventure itinerary was Ushuaia, an archipelago at South America’s southernmost tip and gateway to Antarctica known as “the end of the world” and home to UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Tierra del Fuego.

More than a half dozen species of whales are found in the waters of Antarctica, including humpback, minke and fin whales that feast on Antarctic krill.

About four dozen species of seabirds make their habitats in the area of the Drake Passage and Scotia Sea, including the royal albatross, white-chinned petrel, Antarctic tern, Southern fulmar and sooty shearwater.

Plan Your Travels

Atlas Ocean Voyages offers all-inclusive sailings to Antarctica (among other destinations including the Arctic and the Mediterranean) on purpose-built luxury yachts that feature immersive cultural experiences, world-class expedition teams, onboard enrichment programs, twice-daily Zodiac safaris and shore landings (depending on weather), opportunities for kayaking, wildlife viewing, even camping—a rugged hands-on experience where guests shovel out their own sleeping hole beneath the Antarctic sky. (More than 30 people signed up for this experience on our November voyage, but we opted for the comfort of our toasty-warm stateroom.)

Voyages include gourmet dining with many plant-based options; unlimited beverages including fine wines, spirits and craft beers; open bars and lounges with 24-hour bar service and specialty canapés; stocked in-room minibar with sodas, juices and beers; specialty coffees, cappuccinos, espressos, teas and fresh-pressed juices; afternoon tea service; champagne and gourmet canapés during meet and greet; 24-hour room service, including spirits, wine and beer; L’Occitane bath amenities; and pre-paid gratuities.

Polar expeditions also include free private charter jet service with private group transfers on most expeditions, enrichment lectures and destination briefings, shore landings led by expert field guides, escorted sightseeing safaris by Zodiac, the polar plunge, an Atlas Ocean Voyages parka and vest and free use of knee boots. Atlas really looks after its guests, with every detail attended to, and an onboard staff and crew that go beyond the extra mile. For more information, visit www.atlasoceanvoyages.com.