Zucchini can be a polarizing summer produce.

We love it because it adds incredible moisture and texture to baked goods like brownies and quick breads, and when battered and deep-fried, it sets the stage for one of Pittsburgh's most iconic and delicious appetizers.

But we also sometimes hate it, or at least get really tired of it. That's because zucchini — which is botanically classified as a fruit but is passed off as a vegetable — is so incredibly ubiquitous come August.

Chances are you have a family member or neighbor who grows so much of the vining summer squash (it will quickly take over a garden if not tended to properly) that you are bombarded with it. While groceries are always appreciated, especially when considering today's prices, a bag of zucchini can be hard to get through once you've made, and eaten, that first loaf of bread.

But here's the thing: Zucchini is actually a pretty versatile ingredient, lending itself to dips, stir-fries and a wide variety of desserts. It can also be stuffed with meat and cheese or spiralized into noodles, and it makes for a pretty mean lasagna. So it should definitely be part of your regular dinner rotation in summer.

In this veggie-forward dish, zucchini is sliced into half-moons and then sauteed with shallots, garlic and a pinch or two of red pepper until it's brown and jammy. Then, pasta water, grated Parmesan and fresh lemon juice and zest is added to create a velvety, relatively low-cal sauce for your favorite tubed pasta.

It's so good that I made it twice in one week — once for my husband while we were off the grid in the woods, and again for myself so I could eat it every day for lunch.

What I like best about the recipe, besides its use of easy-to-find everyday (and sometimes free!) ingredients, is that it comes together so quickly and doesn't require a lot of effort. Just slice, saute, stir and serve. And what's not to love about a dish with Parmesan and crushed red pepper?

I used medium-sized zucchini (large ones are more watery and not as flavorful), but you could easily substitute yellow summer squash. Those with some stem still attached will be fresher, and always look for fruit that has a vibrant, shiny color, is free of cuts or blemishes and doesn't feel overly soft.

Leftovers (ha!) will keep for about three days in the fridge. Store unused zucchini in a paper bag in your refrigerator crisper for up to 7 days.

Rigatoni with zucchini and lemon

PG tested

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 shallots, minced (about 1/3 cup)

2 or 3 medium zucchini

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pinch red pepper flakes

2 cloves garlic, minced

12 ounces ziti or rigatoni

1/2 cup grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving

2 lemons, juiced and zested

Fresh basil, for garnish

In large nonstick saucepan, heat oil until shimmering.

Add diced shallot and zucchini along with a generous pinch or two of salt, a couple grinds of pepper and a pinch of red pepper flakes.

Cook, stirring occasionally, for 10-15 minutes, or until the zucchini slices are tender and jammy, and some are well browned. Stir in garlic and cook 1-2 minutes longer, until it's fragrant.

While zucchini is cooking, add pasta to a pot of boiling, well-salted water, and cook until al dente, about 10 minutes. Drain, reserving about 1 cup of the water.

Add cooked pasta to the pan with the zucchini. Add 1/2 cup of the reserved pasta water along with grated cheese. Cook and stir for 2-3 minutes, until a creamy sauce coats the pasta. You may have to add more pasta water to get the desired consistency.

Stir in lemon juice and zest. Season to taste with additional salt and pepper, if needed, and more lemon juice if desired.

Remove sauced pasta to a large serving bowl, or spoon into individual bowls. Garnish with fresh basil cut into long, thin strips (chiffonade) and a generous dusting of grated cheese.

Serves 6.

— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette

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