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The Blue Ridge Mountains, true to their name, appeared as a distant silhouette of sapphire peaks. As we dined outdoors, hummingbirds flitted by and fat rabbits scampered across the grassy lawn. Our weekend getaway at Mountain Lake Lodge, situated at 3,800 feet in southwestern Virginia, rewarded us with panoramic country views, mountain breezes, forest hikes and river kayaking. Work-weary urbanites, my husband and I craved a restorative getaway in nature.

Mountain Lake Lodge, as we had learned before, was the ideal place to go. The historic resort sprawls on a 2,600-acre nature conservancy in Pembroke, Virginia, outside of Blacksburg. A 1936 sandstone lodge overlooks a campus of wooden cabins and cottages, newly renovated in 2022. The property exudes a mountain comfortable feel, serves tasty farm-to-table fare at Harvest (try the rack of lamb and the chicken) and pizza at an outdoor pub.

Over the years, we've explored many of the 22 miles of trails. We've rambled through the property's forests feathered with ferns, admired wildflowers in mountain meadows, spotted the peaks of West Virginia from the 4,000-foot-high overlook and in the evening roasted marshmallows for s'mores at a campfire on the sweeping lawn.

Mountain Lake Lodge is both a rewarding nature destination and a good base for exploring the region's highlands and rivers. Don't miss trekking the Cascades National Recreation Trail, 10 miles away in the George Washington and Jefferson National Forests. The 4-mile round-trip trail leads to a 66-foot waterfall.

Instead of traversing the challenging lower path, which was strewn with tree roots and rocks, we opted for the gravelly, easier upper path, walking it with Scott Bryan, a resort naturalist. He pointed out the oaks, pines and beech trees; showed us the fishing holes for rainbow trout; pulled out (and returned) a water snake from a tidal pool; and plucked a bug-eyed juvenile salamander from the muddy bank.

Another day, at nearby New River's Edge, we kayaked a section of the river from Paul Moody's waterfront retreat. Although we lacked skills, Moody showed us how to hold the paddle and maneuver. He watched from the shore, and his assistant, Jack, paddled alongside us. The river's rhythmic gurgling and the rustle of leaves soothed us. A great blue heron flew above. The peace was broken only periodically by the rumble of nearby freight trains.

New River's Edge is a bargain. For $25 per person, guests can mix kayaking, canoeing and tubing from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Visitors can bring a picnic lunch and play all day with friends and family.

Back at Mountain Lake Lodge, we spent a drizzly afternoon at the artist studio. I haven't drawn or painted anything other than a wooden shelf since high school. No problem. Creative Director Victoria Stone suggested we try constructing a fairy house. She placed a charming finished one, composed of wood blocks, rock and other items, in front of us and taught us how to use the glue gun. No matter how hard we tried, we couldn't get the popsicle sticks to form a roof, and we had no idea what to do with the straws.

Alas, we failed at fairy houses. Undaunted, Victoria switched us to watercolors, demonstrating the differences between dry and wet techniques. Success. We created bright abstracts and discovered how calming art can be. Options include clay sculpture, tie-dying, rock-painting and fashioning friendship bracelets.

Years ago the resort's namesake lake glistened at capacity. After nearly drying up in 2008, the slowly refilling lake hovers at about 35%. To get a glimpse of the full lake, watch the famous scene of Patrick Swayze lifting Jennifer Grey from the water in the 1987 film "Dirty Dancing." That scene and others were filmed at Mountain Lake Lodge. Just as in the iconic movie, visitors can salsa dance in the gazebo, stroll by what served as the Houseman's cabin and bunny hop on the grassy lawn. For immersive fun, book a "Dirty Dancing" weekend of dance lessons, film-location tours and parties.

One night we dined at The Palisades, a find in a former 1926 general store in Eggleston, about 12 miles from the resort. We liked our smoky Manhattan seafood chowder, the trout, the chicken and the warm chocolate cake. Next time, we'll sample one of the luscious pizzas.

Back up the mountain, we relaxed on rocking chairs on our deck. The resort's new spa opens Labor Day, adding another layer of wellness to the offerings. Open year-round, Mountain Lake Lodge pops with russet and yellow trees in fall, features ice skating and Christmas markets in winter, and offers lush woods and beautiful flowers in spring and summer. We can't wait to return -- whatever the season.

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WHEN YOU GO

Mountain Lake Lodge offers hotel rooms as well as two-, three- and four-bedroom cottages. Check for the popular 'Dirty Dancing' Weekends: mtnlakelodge.com.

Cascades National Recreation Trail: virginia.org/listing/cascades-national-recreation-trail/6927

George Washington & Jefferson National Forests: fs.usda.gov/r08/gwj

New River's Edge: newriversedge.com

The Palisades Restaurant: thepalisadesrestaurant.com

Candyce H. Stapen is a writer at www.greatfamilyvacations.com.

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