Eggplant was an important vegetable in the Old World, with roots that reach back to their first known cultivation in fifth-century China.

How it ended up on American dinner tables depends on who you're talking to. Some say Spanish and Portuguese sailors brought the nightshade veggie — which is botanically a fruit — to North American shores in the 15th century. Others claim President Thomas Jefferson brought eggplant seeds from France in the early 1800s to grow in his gardens at Monticello.

However the egg-shaped oddity ended up in the kitchen (white eggplant was grown for ornamental purposes only back in the day), it's been a dependable team player there ever since. It's as good for frying and braising as it is for grilling or roasting, and it's also kind to the body.

Low in fat and cholesterol and high in antioxidants, it counts just around 20 calories per cup. Eggplant also includes nutrients including potassium, manganese and vitamins B1, B3 and B6.

Eggplant comes in many varieties, though here in the U.S. we mostly see the large, shiny, black globe eggplants.

In this recipe, it's roasted until it browns and caramelizes, then is paired with a garlicky, tangy and deliciously herby Argentinian chimichurri.

When choosing eggplant, look for fruit that is shiny, with smooth skin; if it's wrinkled, it's old. It should feel firm but not hard and the stem end should be green. Large ones can be bitter, so hedge your bets by choosing small to medium-sized (and well-formed) eggplants.

Served with a green salad and a basket of thick, toasted bread, this dish would make a terrific centerpiece of a vegetarian meal. But you also could serve it as a side dish with grilled steak or chicken (both of which also welcome a good drizzle of chimichurri) or with shrimp or scrambled eggs.

Roasted Eggplant with Chimichurri

PG tested

For chimichurri

1 cup packed fresh parsley leaves, including the thin stems

1 cup packed cilantro leaves, including thin stems

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

2 shallots, chopped

8 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

1 tablespoon finely chopped red onion

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

For eggplant

2 globe eggplants, cut in half lengthwise or sliced horizontally into thick slices

Olive oil, for brushing

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Make the chimichurri: In blender or food processor, combine parsley, cilantro, oil, vinegar, shallots, garlic, onion, oregano, pepper, pepper flakes and salt. Process until the ingredients are minced and combined.

Transfer to a small bowl. (Sauce should be more like a salad dressing than pesto.)

Roast the eggplant: Preheat oven to 425 degrees with the racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven. Line two half-sheet pans with parchment paper.

Arrange eggplant on the prepared sheets, brush with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Roast until beginning to brown, about 15 minutes. Remove from oven and flip. Return to oven, switching the positions of the pans from top to bottom for even browning.

Continue roasting until they are tender and lightly browned, another 10 minutes.

Transfer eggplant to a platter. Spoon about 1/2 cup of chimichurri on top and serve. Pass the remaining chimichurri at the table.

Serves 4.

— "You Got This! Recipes Anyone Can Make and Everyone Will Love" by Diane Morrisey (Simon Clement, $35)

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