Most of us who grew up in the 1970s and '80s can recall certain staple dishes — either with love or so much distaste.

Then, and to this day, I can't stand even the thought of tuna noodle casserole, a meal my older brothers loved — they'd fight over the crunchy crust of Ritz crackers my mom always piled on top — and my husband every once in a blue moon asks for.

But the cheesy mix of chicken and broccoli known as Chicken Divan? Man, I could eat that once a week and never complain.

Named after the Divan Parisien restaurant at Chatham Hotel in New York City — where the dish was created in the early 1900s — Chicken Divan became smart mothers' tactic for getting their kids to eat vegetables after the recipe popped up in cookbooks in the late 1950s and early '60s.

Broccoli is slightly bitter when raw and mushy (and slightly stinky) when overcooked, so it can be a hard sell on its own. But add some roasted chicken and top it with a creamy cheese sauce and the result is a rich and cozy casserole that even the pickiest child will happily eat.

There are probably as many recipes for broccoli-cheese casserole as there are cooks. Many include canned soup and mayo (my mom's version) and can be made with either fresh or frozen florets. The topping can also be personalized with crackers, bread crumbs, panko or just a generous sprinkling of grated Parmesan cheese — or sometimes a combo of all of the above.

In this recipe, I went the "fresh" route with a package of long and tender baby broccoli from Trader Joe's. I also used two types of cheese — grated Parmesan and extra-sharp cheddar — in the butter-based sauce along with some heavy cream.

I had hoped to top the casserole with a crunchy layer of tater tots (very trendy these days) but could only find hash brown patties. So I cut them into squares, fried them in a little butter to crisp them up and crossed my fingers it would work. It did — beautifully.

Cheesy Broccoli Chicken Bake

PG tested

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast, rinsed and patted dry

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

12-ounce package of baby broccoli, trimmed and cut into 4-inch florets

5 tablespoons butter, divided

5 tablespoons flour or cornstarch

2 cups chicken broth or stock

1/2 cup heavy cream

1 cup shredded Parmesan cheese, divided

1 cup shredded sharp cheddar

8 frozen hash browns patties, thawed and cut into bite-sized pieces

Grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Season chicken breasts with salt and pepper.

Heat oil in a large skillet until shimmering. Add chicken and cook, turning once, until it is cooked through, 10-12 minutes total. Remove to plate and allow to cool for 5 minutes, then cut into bite-sized chunks and place in a large bowl.

Meanwhile, steam or boil broccoli florets in well salted water for 4-5 minutes until tender-crisp, drain well and add to bowl with chicken. Toss to combine.

Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. Add flour or cornstarch and cook, continuously whisking, for around 3 minutes to make a roux.

Add chicken stock or broth slowly, a little at a time, whisking constantly, until you reach a boil. Then reduce heat and simmer while whisking occasionally for 8 minutes.

Reduce heat to low, and cook for 10 minutes more.

Fold in cream along with 1/2 cup Parmesan and all the cheddar. Stir to combine and cook until cheese is completely melted. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Add cheese sauce to the broccoli-chicken mixture and stir to combine.

Pour mixture into the bottom of a buttered 2-quart casserole dish. Sprinkle remaining 1/2 cup grated Parmesan on top.

In a small skillet, melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter, add hash brown squares and cook, tossing often, until crispy. Sprinkle on top of the casserole.

Bake in hot oven until just hot, around 20 minutes. For an extra crispy top, turn oven to broil, sprinkle casserole with a little grated Parmesan and broil 5 inches from heat until casserole is bubbling and golden, about 1 minute.

Serve immediately.

Serves 6.

— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette

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